Mohair fabric.



W. S. NUTTER. MOHAIR FABRIC. APPLICATION FILED NOV. 26, 1913. RENEWED JAN. 11, 1915.

Fig.1.

Wfiinesses. lnvenfur.

y. Wmf fig William S Numer,

M j My mammmm Patented Mar. 9. L915.

1 ranr ruin.

WILLIAM S. NUTTER, 0F SANFORD, MAINE, ASSIGNOR 'IO GOODALL WORSTED COMPANY, OF SANFORD, MAINE, A. CORPORATION OF MAINE.

MOHAIR FABRIC.

Application filed November 26, 1913, Serial No. 803,310. Renewed January 11, 1915.

pearance, which is cheaper to manufacture,

and is stronger and more durable than the ordinary mohair fabric, and which is, peculiarly adapted for use in the manufacture of summer clothing.

A mohair fabric is one made wholly or partly from a yarn spun from the fleece of the Angora goat. tains fibers of two different characters, that is, a white fiber with comparatively little life which will not take a dye readily, and

another fiber with considerable life which will readily take the dye. The'firstrnamed white fiber that will not readily take the dye is known to the trade as kemp and will. be hereinafter referred to as kemp. The white fibers comprising the so-called kemp are usually coarse fibers somewhat larger than the other fibers which Wlll readily take thedye.

In preparing yarn from the Angora fleece, it has heretofore been customary to subject the fleece to the combing process to an ex tent sufficient not only to take out the noil, but also to remove the so-called kemp while leaving in the top from which the yarn is spun the fibers which will readily take a dye In thus continuing the combing op eration to a point sufficient to remove the kemp, a considerable part of the other fibers which will readily take a dye are removed, so that a considerable per cent. of the original material of the Angora fleece is removed during the process of removing thekemp. This necessarily adds to the cost of mohair yarn.

In making my improved cloth, I employ an unbleached, undyed mohair yarn made from tops having the above-mentioned kemp therein. In other words, theAngora fleece from which the mohair yarn in my improved cloth is made is simply combed suihciently to remove the noil and the top thus Specification of Letters Patent.

The Angora fleece con- Patented ltlEar. '9, iwllfi.

Serial No. 1,714.

produced with the kemp therein is drawn and spun into yarn of the desired size. This yarn can be produced much more cheaply than the ordinary mohair yarn because of the fact that it is not necessary to comb the tops to the extent required to remove the kemp therefrom.

In making up my new fabric I propose to use the mohair yarn thus produced for the weft and to employ a specially-prepared warp thread which cooperates with this mohair weft yarn to produce goods of an even texture. The presence of the kemp in the weft yarn of the fabric gives the yarn asomewhat uneven" appearance, partly because of the fact that these kemp fibers are whiter than the other fibers of the yarn, and partly because of the fact that many of them are larger and coarser and thus tend to stand out more or less prominently. If an undyed, unbleached yarn of this nature is woven into a cloth having a plain warp thread, the appearance of the cloth will be more or less streaky due to the uneven Streaky character of the weft yarn produced by the presence of the kemp therein. In order to break up this streaky appearance in the cloth and to produce a cloth having an even tcXtu're,I propose to employ a variegated warp thread showing diilerent colors, such for instance as would be produced by twisting together two strands which are formed of different colors. For making. a tan-colored fabric I find best results are secured by employing a. warp thread having a white and. a colored strand twisted together, the colored strand being approximately twice the size of the white strand but the particular colors of the two strands may be varied according to the character of the cloth to be produced. When two strands of this nature are twisted together to the right extent, a warp thread is produced which when used in conjunction with a mohair weft yarn orthread, such as above described, will produce a fabric having uniform color, the colored and white warp threads operating to break up any Streaky appearance which would be produced by the particular weft yarn above described.

Iii-order to give a better understanding of the invention I would refer to the accompanying drawings.

Figure 1 is a view of a piece of cloth made in accordance with my invention; Fig. 2 is up and counteract the due to the presence of the hemp fibers 3 in an enlarged and somewhat exaggerated view of the weft-yarn; Fig. dis a similar View of the warp thread which may be used the fabric.

Referring to Fig. 2 which represents the weft yarn 10, the white fibers of the yarn constituting the hemp are shown at 3 and the other fibers at 4. An unbleached, un* dyed mohair yarn made from tops including both of these fibers presents a somewhat streaky or uneven appearance illustrated in Fig. 2. As above described, the warp thread 7 which is used in weaving the cloth is one. showing different colors, the object of using a warp of this nature being to break s'treaky appearance the weft yarn 10. In the preferred embodiment of my invention I secure a warp thread of this character by twisting together two strands 5 and 6 of diflerent color, the strand 5 being a white or light-colored strand and the strand 6 being a strand having a darker color. Where the fabric being produced is a tan-colored fabric, the strang 5 will preferably be awhite strand and the strand 6 will be a tan-colored strand, but the particular color of the strands 6 may be varied somewhat, depending on the color of the cloth to be produced.

I find best results are secured by making the colored strand 6 approximately twice the size of the white strand 5. The fabric 8 is made by interweaving these warp and weft threads in ordinary manner. A fabric of this nature can be produced much more cheaply thanan ordinary mohair fabric due to the less cost of producing the .mohair yarn. Further, such a fabric has all the appearance of a linen fabric and is exceptionany well adaptedfor use in making hot- .weather suits, such as linen is commonly used for.

The fabric can be washed without danger of shrinking or change of color because it is unbleached and undyed, and as the full strength of the fiber is maintained the cloth a dye, and the other is stronger and more durable than the ordinary mohair cloth.

It will be obvious, of course, that the style or pattern of the cloth embodying my invention may be varied by introducing at proper intervals colored threads to produce a stripe or a check effect. An important feature of the invention is the use in the cloth of a variegated thread showing different colors to break u and eliminate the strealry appearance o the cloth due to the presence of the white kemp fibers in the mohair yarn.

Having fully described my invention what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. A fabric comprising warp threads and weft threads, one of said threads containing the fibers of the Angora fleece that will read- 11y take a dye and also the so-called hemp fibers of the fleece that will not readily take thread being a variegated thread showin different colors throughout its lengthjo n'eak up the streaky appearance of the fabric due to the presence of the hemp fibers in the first named thread.

A fabric comprising a weft formed from mohair yarn spun from tops containing both the fibers of the Angora fleece which will readily take a dye and the fibers constituting the kemp, and a two-ply warp formed of a white strand and a colored strand twisted together.

3. A. fabric comprising a weft formed from mohair yarn spun from tops having both the fibers of the Angora fleece that will readily take a dye and the fibers constituting the kemp,and a two-ply warp formed of a white strand and a colored strand twisted together, said colored strand being approximately twice the size of the white strand.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

WILLIAM S. NUTTER.

Witnesses:

W'ILLIAM BATCHELDER, CLYDE L. REED. 

